The church’s hallowed square was filled to the brim with the faithful. I held my mom’s hand as steadfastly as I could like my life depended on it. I was afraid that if I let go I would get lost in the swelling sea of people. I stayed close and followed her every step with a watchful eye.

It was the Thursday before Easter during the holiest week of the year.  There was a long queue to get a glimpse of the miraculous Black Nazarene, the much venerated life-size wooden sculpture of Christ in Quiapo Church in one of the busiest districts of Manila.  The line stretched around the church’s perimeter but everyone waited for their turn without any complaint.  Old folks with their jeweled rosaries. Women with their restless toddlers.  Young couples with their peers.  For some, the arduous wait is a form of penitence but for most it is a lifelong tradition.

As we entered the church festooned with sampaguita, the heady scent of the flowers and the glow of countless candles burning greeted us.  Each slender taper was lit with a trustful intention in mind.  A new job or a new love.  A cure for a serious sickness.  A solution to a painful problem.  For the longest time, my mom’s prayer had been for a son. She was already blessed with a devoted husband and five lovely daughters but her ardent prayer was for a son — the one who would proudly carry the family name.  And so when she had the good fortune of having me, she made a promise to visit the Black Nazarene every year and to give thanks for her answered prayers.

When our turn finally came, she reached inside her purse for my dad’s white handkerchief.  She held the Black Nazarene’s majestic maroon robe, closed her eyes, and whispered a prayer.  After a brief pause, she turned around, brushed my forehead with the blessed handkerchief, wrapped her arms around me, and hugged me tightly.

A simple, austere plate of mung bean stew and fried dried and salted fish reminds me about Lent in so many ways.  Lent is a time of restraint.  It is a time of retreat to examine what matters most in life.  This humble vegetable stew has been my family’s source of sustenance during these solemn times.


Candles in Quiapo Church


Mung Bean Stew Recipe, makes six to eight servings

1 cup dried mung beans
5 cups shrimp stock or water
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small onion, chopped, about 1/2 cup
2 small tomatoes, chopped, about 1/2 cup
1/2 pound shrimp, shelled, deveined, and cleaned
1 tablespoons fish sauce, more to taste
1 bunch spinach, washed and stems removed

Rinse and sort the beans. Soak the beans overnight in cold water, enough to cover the beans with several inches of water. Discard the water after soaking. Soaking will speed up the cooking process but is not necessary.

Place beans and shrimp stock in a pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook until beans are tender, about 30 minutes to an hour. Cooking time depends on whether the beans were pre-soaked or not.

While the beans are cooking, sauté garlic, onions and tomatoes in oil over medium-high heat until fragrant and softened, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add the shrimp and sauté until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add shrimp mixture and fish sauce to the beans, stir, and cook for ten more minutes, stirring frequently. Add more water if the stew becomes too thick. Adjust the taste by stirring in more fish sauce, if necessary.

Add spinach leaves right before serving. Ladle into bowls and serve with fried dried salted fish and freshly steamed rice.


Shrimp Stock Recipe

shrimp heads and shells

Place the shrimp heads and shells in a pot. Add water, enough to just cover the shrimp trimmings. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and let it simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Skim and discard any foam that rises to the top of the liquid. Strain the shrimp trimmings from the stock.

The shrimp stock will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, but it will store in the freezer for a few months. To use frozen stock, just slowly reheat in a saucepan.


Cooking Notes:

1. Fermented shrimp paste can be used in place of fish sauce to season the stew.

2. Tinapa [tee-nah-pah], smoked fish, or even pork can be used to add another layer of flavor and make the stew more substantial. For a strictly vegetarian version, replace the shrimp stock with a vegetable stock, season with salt, and take out the shrimps.

3. Some prefer the beans puréed into a thick paste but I prefer my stew a little thinner, which makes it more like a soup than a stew.

4. Dried salted fish like scad and mackerel are usually available in most Asian grocery stores. For those who have never cooked with dried fish before, they can be extremely pungent.


Monggo Guisado Mung Bean Stew

  • brhau

    This reminds me of kongbiji jigae, a Korean stew made with soybean pulp (retained after the puree) and flavored with salted shrimp, pork, and kimchi. Instead of that salted fish, we’d commonly eat with sauteed anchovies. Love seeing so many of the same (or similar) elements in Filipino cuisine, but in a different context.

  • Liren

    What beautiful memories. I experienced Lent once in the Philippines and this brings me back to those memories, which still are clear to me, though I was just a child at the time. And monggo is such a comfort food – there was a lot of chatter the other day about monggo guisado – I especially love it with the dried hipon. Thank you for another beautiful post, Jun.

  • Stephanie

    nice blue-rimmed plate, jun! ;-)

  • Jun Belen

    Thank you, Ben. We also pair mung bean stew with sauteed anchovies. Love to nibble on those crunchy little fish.

  • Trina

    I was just thinking of this dish over the weekend! My mom also puts pork belly and thin-sliced bitter melon &/or its leaves when she makes this. I’ve substituted crisped bacon & ultra-peppery farm-fresh arugula for an “americanized” version. Thanks so much for posting your recipe!

  • Jun Belen

    Thanks, Trina. Your idea of adding peppery arugula is brilliant! My mom sometimes adds slices of ampalaya and the bitter arugula leaves would give the same contrast, too!

  • roland

    ARUGULA! so obvious yet i didn’t thinf it – i have been using spinach and ampalaya

  • Jun Belen

    Thanks, Roland. I know arugula is a perfect substitute, isn’t it?

  • ElizabethQ

    Fantastic comfort food! Thanks for posting and sharing the recipe. I was just thinking of making this and now here it is.

  • Jean

    Jun, you have a way of making filipino food shine. When you talk about these two humble dishes, munggo and tinapa, you make them special. I haven’t had munggo in many years but I do remember how comforting it was to enjoy my mom’s version. As for tinapa, well it’s one of my favorite fish to eat.

    I remember the smell of sampaguita, having attended mass in San Fernando last year when my grandfather passed away. Thanks for sharing your special Lent moments with us, Jun.

  • carolineadobo

    My childhood memory about Quiapo Church: five years old walking in the aisle alongside my mom as she walked on her knees (!!!) from the front up to the altar while praying the rosary. Too young to realize it’s impact and what it all symbolized until years later. Actually haven’t thought of it lately until I read your post. Thank you, Jun.
    A lovely munggo guisado, I recently just had some myself but I was missing tinapa. I would need to make some more soon.

  • Jun Belen

    Thank you, Carol. It really amazes me how similar our stories and memories of life back home are. Fond memories, definitely.

  • foodwanderings

    Hi Jun, I love the vow your mom took. Very similar to traditions in at least with the Indian Jewish community I grew up in, also the yearning for a boy….and what a talented your mom bargained for:). Although I cannot eat shrimp I bet I can make fish stock instead, love mung beans, your story andLent tradistions!

  • The Daily Palette

    What a beautiful post, Jun. Your mom is so blessed to have you. I love our common threads.I cannot wait for the book/s (yes, plural).

  • The Daily Palette

    What a beautiful post, Jun. Your mom is so blessed to have you. I love our common threads.I cannot wait for the book/s (yes, plural).

  • Amelia from Z Tasty Life

    i am always amazing at the variety of filipino food you portray… and the traditions you recount are sweet and dear. Many of the catholic rituals you mention are similar from my growing up in a small town in Italy.

  • Amelia from Z Tasty Life

    i am always amazing at the variety of filipino food you portray… and the traditions you recount are sweet and dear. Many of the catholic rituals you mention are similar from my growing up in a small town in Italy.

  • sippitysup

    Touching and sweet. Not to mention delicious. GREG

  • Lala

    yum!! i love munggo! and i look forward to your storytelling because i think that’s half the fun of blog posts. my lola would take me to church all the time too and let me adorn myself with sampaguita flowers from her garden.

    and ps, tuyo is my mom’s fave food. humble indeed. thx for the post :)

  • Jun Belen

    Thank you, Lala. I was just telling Carol how similar our childhoods were. I, too, loved having sampaguita garlands adorn my neck. But I guess that wasn’t too normal for a boy like me! LOL.

  • iya

    i love ginisang munggo paired with paksiw na tiyan ng bangus! yummy!!!

  • Jun Belen

    Classic combination! Love it!!

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  • Mac Centeno

    love your blog sir! your photography is really amazing!

  • Jun Belen

    Mac, thank you for the compliments and many thanks for following the blog!

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